Lord Fatbottom

American-style Barleywine

This obscenely rich and decadent American-style barley wine pushes the envelope in terms of ABV, bitterness, and caloric content. A deep mahogany strong ale that pours with a tan head and a big whiff of sweet malt and pungent hops ... so many hops, in fact, that you could mistake this beer for an overgrown IPA when it's young. After a year, the malt comes forward and this potent elixir becomes truly fat. Don't try this one without a yeast starter; better yet, brew a batch of Extra Pale Ale or Chinook IPA first, rack it, and pour the yeast cake from the primary into the Lord Fatbottom wort.

OG: 1.123 FG: 1.026 – 1.034 Ready: 8+ months

1 to 2 weeks primary, 6 months secondary, 2 to 4 weeks bottle conditioning

Kit Inventory:

Specialty Grain

• 4 oz Carapils
• 4 oz Caramunich
• 4 oz Briess 40 L Crystal
• 4 oz Simpsons Medium Crystal

Fermentables

• 6 lbs Amber dry malt extract powder
• 8 lbs Light dry malt extract powder (late addition – add 15 minutes before end of boil)

Boil Additions

• 2 oz. Summit (60 min)
• 2 oz Centennial (30 min)
• 2 oz Cascade (5 min)

Yeast

Wyeast 1056 American Ale. Used commercially for several classic American ales. This strain ferments dry, finishes soft, smooth and clean, and is very well balanced. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: low–medium. Optimum temp: 60°-72°F

Dry Hops added to secondary fermenter

• 1 oz Columbus

Priming Sugar

• 5 oz. corn sugar

Needed but not included:

Extra pack of Wyeast 1056 for bottling (Step #27)

These simple instructions are basic brewing procedures for this Northern Brewer extract beer kit; please refer to your starter kit instructions for specific instructions on use of equipment and common procedures such as siphoning, sanitizing, bottling, etc.

For more detailed extract brewing instructions, please visit www.northernbrewer.com

Before you begin ...

Minimum requirements

• homebrewing starter kit for brewing 5 gallon batches
• yeast starter kit
• boiling kettle of at least 2.5 gallons capacity
• a 5 gallon glass carboy, with bung and airlock, to use as a secondary fermenter
• approximately two cases of either 12 ounce or 22 ounce pry-off style beer bottles

Unpack the kit

• refrigerate the yeast upon arrival
• locate the Kit Inventory (above) – this is the recipe for your beer, so keep it handy
• doublecheck the box contents vs. the the Kit Inventory
• contact us immediately if you have any questions or concerns!

Procedure

A few days before Brewing Day

1.Incubate yeast. Remove the yeast from the refrigerator, and “smack” as shown on the back of the yeast package. Leave it in a warm place (70-80° F) to incubate until the pack begins to inflate. Allow at least 3 hours for inflation; some packs may take up to several days to show inflation. Do not brew with inactive yeast — we can replace the yeast, but not a batch that fails to ferment properly.

2.Prepare a yeast starter. Follow the Yeast Starter Kit instructions and prepare a yeast starter. Allow the starter to incubate for at least one day before Brew Day.

Alternate method: yeast cake. Instead of a yeast starter, reuse yeast from a previous batch. Brew a batch of beer using the same yeast 1 to 2 weeks before Brew Day. On Brew Day, transfer the batch out of the primary fermenter, and save the slurry from the bottom of the primary to pitch into the chilled Lord Fatbottom wort. Be sure to follow good sanitizing procedures!

On Brewing Day

3.Collect and heat 1 ½ gallons of water.

4.Crush and steep specialty grains. Pour crushed grains into supplied mesh bag and tie the open end in a knot. Steep for 20 minutes or until water reaches 170°F.

5.Bring to a boil and add Amber DME. Remove the kettle from the burner and stir in 6 lbs amber dry malt extract.

6.Return wort to boil, add 2 oz Summit hops, and boil for 60 minutes. The mixture is now called “wort”, the brewer's term for unfermented beer.

7.Add 2 oz Centennial hops 30 minutes before the end of the boil.

8.Add 8 lbs Light DME 15 minutes before the end of the boil. Add extra water as needed and stir well to dissolve.

9.Add 2 oz Cascade hops 5 minutes before the end of the boil.

10.Cool the wort. When the 60-minute boil is finished, cool the wort to approximately 100° F as rapidly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or put the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.

11.Sanitize fermenting equipment. While the wort cools, sanitize the fermenting equipment – fermenter, lid or stopper, fermentation lock, funnel, etc.

12.Fill primary fermenter with 3 gallons of cold water, then pour in the cooled wort. Leave any thick sludge in the bottom of the kettle.

13.Add more cold water as needed to bring the volume to 5 gallons.

14.Aerate the wort. Seal the fermenter and rock back and forth to splash for a few minutes, or use an aeration system and diffusion stone.

15.Measure specific gravity of the wort with a hydrometer and record.

16.Add yeast once the temperature of the wort is 78°F or lower (not warm to the touch).

17.Seal the fermenter. Add approximately 1 tablespoon of water to the sanitized fermentation lock. Insert the lock into rubber stopper or lid, and seal the fermenter.

18.Move the fermenter to a warm, dark, quiet spot until fermentation begins.

From one day until one or two weeks after Brewing Day

19.Active fermentation begins. Within approximately 48 hours of Brewing Day, active fermentation will begin – there will be a cap of foam on the surface of the beer, the specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer will drop steadily, and you may see bubbles come through the fermentation lock. The optimum fermentation temperature for this beer is 60-72° F – move the fermenter to a warmer or cooler spot as needed.

20.Active fermentation ends. Approximately one to two weeks after brewing day, active fermentation will end. When the cap of foam falls back into the new beer, bubbling in the fermentation lock slows down or stops, and the specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer is stable, proceed to step #21.

From one or two weeks after Brewing Day until two to six months after Brewing Day

21.Transfer beer to secondary fermenter. Sanitize siphoning equipment and an airlock and carboy bung or stopper. Siphon the beer from the primary fermenter into the secondary.

22.Secondary fermentation. Allow the beer to condition in the secondary fermenter for at least 2 months (or for as long as 6 months) before proceeding with step #23.

23.Add dry hops 1 week before bottling. Add 1 oz Columbus hops to the beer in the secondary fermenter and wait 1 week before proceeding to step #24.

Bottling Day – about three to six months after Brewing Day

24.Sanitize siphoning and bottling equipment.

25.Make a priming solution. Measure out 3/4 to 7/8 of a cup of priming sugar from the 5 oz. bag and dissolve in one pint of water in a small saucepan. Bring the priming solution to a boil and pour into the bottling bucket.

26.Siphon beer into bottling bucket and mix with priming solution. Stir gently to mix – don't splash

27.Add bottling yeast. Add 1 pack of Wyeast 1056 American Ale to the beer in the bottling bucket and stir gently to mix. Fresh yeast will ensure adequate carbonation after a long secondary. It is not necessary to incubate the yeast or make a starter.

28.Fill and cap bottles.

Two to four weeks after Bottling Day

29.Condition bottles at room temperature for 14-28 days. After this point, the bottles can be stored cool or cold.

30.Serving. Pour into a clean glass, being careful to leave the layer of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Cheers!

31.Extended aging. Stored in a cool, dark place, this beer will continue to improve and evolve for at least a year after Brewing Day.