Lefse Blonde
From the little-known Lutheran monasteries of northern Minnesota comes this artisanal Abbey beer. Pale, self-effacing, and easy to get along with, this Belgian-style blonde ale features the same generous malt profile and spicy yeast character of stronger Dubbels and Tripels, but its more modest gravity means you can enjoy a couple and remain upright and hard-working past Compline.
O.G: 1.053
Ready: 6 weeks
1 to 2 weeks primary, 2 weeks secondary, 1 to 2 weeks bottle conditioning
Kit Inventory:
Fermentables
- 3.15 lbs Pilsen malt extract syrup
- 3.15 lbs Pilsen malt extract syrup (late addition add 15 minutes before end of boil)
- 1 lb soft blonde candi sugar (late addition add 15 minutes before end of boil)
Boil Additions
- 1.5 oz. Styrian Goldings (60 min)
- 0.5 oz Styrian Goldings (5 min)
Yeast
Wyeast 1762 Belgian Abbey II. High gravity yeast with distinct warming character from ethanol production. Slightly fruity with dry finish. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: medium. Optimum temp: 65°-75° F
Priming Sugar
These simple instructions are basic brewing procedures for this Northern Brewer extract beer kit; please refer to your starter kit instructions for specific instructions on use of equipment and common procedures such as siphoning, sanitizing, bottling, etc.
For more detailed extract brewing instructions, please visit www.northernbrewer.com
Before you begin ...
Minimum requirements
- homebrewing starter kit for brewing 5 gallon batches
- boiling kettle of at least 2.5 gallons capacity
- a 5 gallon glass carboy, with bung and airlock, to use as a secondary fermenter
- approximately two cases of either 12 ounce or 22 ounce pry-off style beer bottles
Unpack the kit
- refrigerate the yeast upon arrival
- locate the Kit Inventory (above) this is the recipe for your beer, so keep it handy
- doublecheck the box contents vs. the the Kit Inventory
- contact us immediately if you have any questions or concerns!
Procedure
A few days before Brewing Day
1.Incubate yeast. Remove the yeast from the refrigerator, and smack as shown on the back of the yeast package. Leave it in a warm place (70-80° F) to incubate until the pack begins to inflate. Allow at least 3 hours for inflation; some packs may take up to several days to show inflation. Do not brew with inactive yeast we can replace the yeast, but not a batch that fails to ferment properly.
On Brewing Day
2.Collect and heat 1 ½ gallons of water.
3.Bring to a boil and add ONE 3.15 lb jug Pilsen malt syrup. Remove the kettle from the burner and stir in 3.15 lbs of the Pilsen malt syrup. Do not add both jugs at this time!
4.Return wort to boil, add 1.5 oz Styrian Goldings hops, and boil for 60 minutes. The mixture is now called wort, the brewer's term for unfermented beer.
5.Add 3.15 lbs Pilsen malt syrup 15 minutes before the end of the boil.
6.Add 0.5 oz Styrian Goldings hops 5 minutes before the end of the boil.
7.Cool the wort. When the 60-minute boil is finished, cool the wort to approximately 100° F as rapidly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or put the kettle in an ice bath in your sink.
8.Sanitize fermenting equipment and yeast pack. While the wort cools, sanitize the fermenting equipment fermenter, lid or stopper, fermentation lock, funnel, etc along with the yeast pack and a pair of scissors.
9.Fill primary fermenter with 3 gallons of cold water, then pour in the cooled wort. Leave any thick sludge in the bottom of the kettle.
10.Add more cold water as needed to bring the volume to 5 gallons.
11.Aerate the wort. Seal the fermenter and rock back and forth to splash for a few minutes, or use an aeration system and diffusion stone.
12.Measure specific gravity of the wort with a hydrometer and record.
13.Add yeast once the temperature of the wort is 78°F or lower (not warm to the touch). Use the sanitized scissors to cut off a corner of the yeast pack, and carefully pour the yeast into the primary fermenter.
14.Seal the fermenter. Add approximately 1 tablespoon of water to the sanitized fermentation lock. Insert the lock into rubber stopper or lid, and seal the fermenter.
15.Move the fermenter to a warm, dark, quiet spot until fermentation begins.
From one day until one or two weeks after Brewing Day
16.Active fermentation begins. Within approximately 48 hours of Brewing Day, active fermentation will begin there will be a cap of foam on the surface of the beer, the specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer will drop steadily, and you may see bubbles come through the fermentation lock. The optimum fermentation temperature for this beer is 65-75° F move the fermenter to a warmer or cooler spot as needed.
17.Active fermentation ends. Approximately one week to two weeks after brewing day, active fermentation will end. When the cap of foam falls back into the new beer, bubbling in the fermentation lock slows down or stops, and the specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer is stable, proceed to step #18.
From one or two weeks after Brewing Day until three to four weeks after Brewing Day
18.Transfer beer to secondary fermenter. Sanitize siphoning equipment and an airlock and carboy bung or stopper. Siphon the beer from the primary fermenter into the secondary.
19.Secondary fermentation. Allow the beer to condition in the secondary fermenter for 2 weeks before proceeding with step #20.
Bottling Day three to four weeks after Brewing Day
20.Sanitize siphoning and bottling equipment.
21.Make a priming solution. Measure out 3/4 to 7/8 of a cup of priming sugar from the 5 oz. bag and dissolve in one pint of water in a small saucepan. Bring the priming solution to a boil and pour into the bottling bucket.
22.Siphon beer into bottling bucket and mix with priming solution. Stir gently to mix don't splash
23.Fill and cap bottles.
One to two weeks after Bottling Day
24.Condition bottles at room temperature for 1 to 2 weeks. After this point, the bottles can be stored cool or cold.
25.Serving. Pour into a clean glass, being careful to leave the layer of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Cheers!